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VIVIENNE WESTWOOD “AMPHORA” WOOL JACKET Fall/Winter 1998 – Dressed to Scale (Runway Documented) $2,000 Size: UK 16 / US 12 (Fits US 8–10)

A runway-documented example of Vivienne Westwood’s iconic Amphora jacket from the Fall/Winter 1998 “Dressed to Scale” collection. Designed as an exaggerated evolution of the Metropolitan jacket, it achieves its dramatic hourglass shape through advanced pattern cutting rather than traditional padding.

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ARCHIVAL DETAILS

THE DESIGNER

ERA & CULTURAL CONTEXT

ERA & CULTURAL CONTEXT

Vivienne Westwood stands among the most influential designers of the late 20th century, merging British historicism, radical deconstruction, and advanced tailoring into a singular design language.


By the late 1990s, Westwood’s Gold Label collections represented the intellectual and technical apex of the house. Drawing from 18th-century corsetry, Savile Row tailoring, and sculptural pattern engineering, she redefined modern femininity through structural distortion and historical reinterpretation.


The Amphora jacket is one of the most celebrated tailoring innovations of this era.

ERA & CULTURAL CONTEXT

ERA & CULTURAL CONTEXT

ERA & CULTURAL CONTEXT

Collection: Fall/Winter 1998 – Dressed to Scale

Label: Vivienne Westwood Gold Label

Origin: Made in Italy

  

The Dressed to Scale collection explored exaggerated proportion, compression, and expansion — themes rooted in Westwood’s ongoing dialogue with classical silhouette and body architecture.


The Amphora jacket evolved from the earlier Metropolitan style, amplifying the hourglass into a more sculptural, vessel-like form. Runway documentation confirms this silhouette as a central tailoring statement of the season.


This example retains the signature orb-branded oversized button and architectural lapel structure characteristic of the runway version.

DESIGN & CONSTRUCTION

ERA & CULTURAL CONTEXT

DESIGN & CONSTRUCTION

Material: Stretch lambswool blend

Silhouette: Sculpted hourglass “Amphora” form

Closure: Oversized orb-branded button

Construction: Advanced pattern engineering (not padded shaping)

  

The dramatic curved lapels sweep outward before folding inward across the torso, visually narrowing the waist while expanding the upper line. 


Sculpted hip panels project subtly from the waistline, creating the illusion of compression and release — an effect achieved through precision pattern cutting rather than internal padding.


The asymmetrical front closure enhances movement and directional tension. The light grey stretch wool allows the garment to maintain structure while contouring naturally to the body.


This is tailoring as architectural illusion.

CRAFTSMANSHIP

COLLECTOR SIGNIFICANCE

DESIGN & CONSTRUCTION

Fabric retains resilience and even coloration. Structure remains sharp and sculptural. Seams are intact, and the signature oversized orb button remains secure and well-preserved. 


The jacket holds its intended hourglass form without collapse — a key indicator of structural integrity in Amphora pieces. 

COLLECTOR SIGNIFICANCE

COLLECTOR SIGNIFICANCE

COLLECTOR SIGNIFICANCE

•  Gold Label runway-documented piece

• Fall/Winter 1998 Dressed to Scale

• Iconic Amphora silhouette

• Orb-branded oversized button

• One of Westwood’s most recognizable late-1990s tailoring forms

• Increasingly scarce in excellent condition


The Amphora remains one of the house’s most studied and collectible silhouettes from the late 1990s.

CONDITION

COLLECTOR SIGNIFICANCE

COLLECTOR SIGNIFICANCE

Excellent vintage condition.


Structure, tailoring, and hardware remain beautifully preserved.


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