
A runway-documented* example from Alexander McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 1998 “Joan” collection — one of the designer’s most historically charged and revered presentations. Inspired by Joan of Arc, the collection fused ecclesiastical severity with aggressive tailoring. This sharply cut cashmere pencil skirt exemplifies that with its sculptural triangular yoke, elongated silhouette, and dramatic back ve
Autumn/Winter 1998 marked one of Lee Alexander McQueen’s most historically charged collections. Titled “Joan,” the presentation drew from the legend of Joan of Arc — martyrdom, sanctity, persecution, and spiritual armor woven into razor-sharp tailoring.
This period solidified McQueen’s mastery of tension: fragility versus aggression, softness versus militancy, sacred symbolism framed within sculptural construction. The collection remains one of the most academically referenced and institutionally revered of his career.
This skirt is a rare surviving example from that defining season. Runway-documented tailoring from this season is increasingly held within museum and private archive collections.
Collection: Autumn/Winter 1998–99 – Joan
Look: 14 (Runway Documented)
Origin: Made in Italy
The A/W 1998 runway emphasized architectural tailoring with elongated silhouettes and sharply defined seam placements. Triangular yoke constructions, high back vents, and flashes of red lining became signatures of the collection.
Documented runway examples confirm the silhouette and construction language seen here. Pieces from Joan are increasingly scarce on the private market, particularly in wearable condition.
Material: 100% Cashmere / Glass Beading
Lining: Collection-specific blood-red jacquard
Closure: Concealed back zip
Cut in pure black cashmere, the skirt features McQueen’s signature sculptural triangular back yoke — a precise, almost armor-like seam placement that frames the hips and sharpens the waistline.
The elongated calf-length silhouette maintains a strict vertical line, interrupted only by a dramatic center-back vent designed to reveal glimpses of the house’s signature red damask lining in motion.
This example has been professionally customized with black jet-bead floral embroidery applied to the lower back area. The motif visually echoes embellishment language seen within the 1998 collection while introducing added surface texture and dimensionality.
The result is a striking dialogue between austerity and ornament.
Cashmere remains structured with excellent weight and drape. Seam architecture is intact and yoke construction remains crisp. Lining is preserved.
The added beadwork is executed at a high professional level, securely applied and evenly tensioned. Modification is permanent and post-production.
• Autumn/Winter 1998 “JOAN” collection
• Look 14 Runway-documented silhouette
• Signature triangular yoke construction
• Rare mainline McQueen tailoring
• Professionally customized editorial-level archival example
The modification shifts the classification from institutional archive purity to high-level editorial collectible — without compromising structural integrity.
Excellent vintage condition with strong structural integrity.
Permanent professional post-production embellishment present (see disclosure).
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